Exosome skin care gains attention despite FDA approval gap
Dermatologists told NBC Select the ingredients may support skin repair, but no exosome product has FDA approval for cosmetic use.
By Tom Brennan · Health & Medicine Correspondent
3 min read
Exosome-based skin care is moving from medical-grade treatments in Korea into U.S. at-home products, NBC Select reported. Dermatologists cited by the outlet said the ingredients may help with inflammation, collagen support and skin repair, while warning that no exosome product is approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for cosmetic use.
Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Physicians of Connecticut, told NBC Select that exosomes are appealing to brands because they can be marketed as innovative. She said the potential is real, but regulation has not caught up with the consumer market.
What exosomes are
Exosomes are tiny vesicles naturally released by many kinds of cells, including skin cells, stem cells and platelets, according to NBC Select. They carry materials such as proteins, lipids, growth factors and microRNA, which can affect how nearby cells behave.
Dr. Corey L. Hartman, a board-certified dermatologist, told NBC Select that exosomes help skin cells communicate with one another. Gohara said they can act as messengers that may help calm inflammation, repair damaged tissue and support collagen and elastin production, which decline with age.
Dr. Asmi Berry, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles, told NBC Select that genetic material carried by exosomes, including mRNA, can influence gene expression in skin cells. Berry said exosome products are often made as serums because that format can penetrate more deeply and may keep the ingredients more stable in low-water, minimal-ingredient formulas.
How products differ
NBC Select reported that exosomes are appearing in serums, moisturizers and thicker balm products, though Berry said creams may weaken their effect. The products also vary by source: some use human-derived exosomes, while others use plant-derived versions.
Among products highlighted by NBC Select, Plated Intense Serum costs $258 and uses human-derived exosomes. Dr. Joshua Korman, a board-certified plastic surgeon, recommended it to NBC Select; the brand says it works with compliant U.S. blood banks to obtain human platelets and markets the serum for redness, inflammation and fine lines.
Skinfix Exo + Ectoin Retinol-Alternative Intensive Skin Barrier Repair Baume was cited by both Gohara and Hartman, according to NBC Select. The $69 fragrance-free balm includes exosomes and ectoin, and Gohara said it is designed to hydrate, soothe and strengthen the skin barrier, especially for sensitive or compromised skin.
The Inkey List Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum was listed by NBC Select as a lower-priced option at $22. The outlet reported that it uses plant-derived exosomes, is fragrance-free and can be used morning and night, according to the brand.
NBC Select also identified 111Skin Exosome Face Lift as a high-priced option at $825. The brand sells it as a two-step treatment with an Exosome Shot Serum and an Exosome Overnight Mask, and recommends four weeks of use to see results, according to NBC Select.
Medicube One Day Exosome Shot Serum was described by the brand as an over-the-counter, noninvasive alternative to microneedling, NBC Select reported. The product uses spicules, or microscopic needle-like structures, coated in exosomes, and the brand says users may feel sharpness or tingling on application.
What consumers should know
Dermatologists cited by NBC Select described exosomes as promising, especially for skin signaling and repair. Their comments also underscored the main limitation for shoppers: claims are spreading faster than FDA cosmetic approvals.
This story draws on original reporting from NBC News.