Bezos Earth Fund fashion grants draw scrutiny over Amazon ties

The Bezos Earth Fund is putting $34 million into research aimed at changing the raw materials used in clothing. The grants matter because the fund says most of fashion’s environmental damage comes before a garment reaches a shopper.

The fund announced the awards in late April, with Lauren Sánchez Bezos, its vice chair, taking a public role in promoting the initiative. The money is divided among four research efforts focused on lower-impact fibers and cotton.

Columbia University and the Fashion Institute of Technology will share $11.5 million to develop textile fiber grown from bacteria fed with agricultural waste, according to the Bezos Earth Fund. UC Berkeley will receive $10 million for a biodegradable fiber modeled on spider silk that does not use silkworms, spiders or plastic.

Clemson University is getting $11 million to work on gene-edited cotton designed to grow with color and performance traits already built in, the fund said. The Cotton Foundation will receive $1.5 million to rebuild a non-GMO cotton seedbank.

Sánchez Bezos said in a statement that researchers are working on fibers grown from bacteria, cotton that grows in color and silk-like materials made from compost. “That’s not just good for the planet. That’s the future of fashion,” she said.

Why the grants drew attention

The Bezos Earth Fund says materials and manufacturing account for about 80% of fashion’s environmental footprint, including emissions, water use, pollution and landfill waste. Its argument is that cleaner fibers could reduce harm before clothing is made.

The announcement also landed near the 2026 Met Gala, where Jeff Bezos and Sánchez Bezos were lead sponsors and honorary co-chairs. Fortune reported that the timing fueled criticism from activists who accused Bezos of trying to improve his public image while Amazon faces long-running allegations over worker treatment.

The Met Gala raises money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute and is one of fashion’s most visible annual events. Fortune reported that some critics viewed the pairing of a fashion sustainability grant and a high-profile gala role as image management.

The activist group Everyone Hates Elon placed anti-Bezos posters around New York, according to Fortune. A protester told the Daily Mail that Bezos was using the event to “launder his image,” while Sourcing Journal reported that criticism led to a worker-led counter-event and posters calling it the “Bezos Met Gala” and saying it was “brought to you by worker exploitation.”

Amazon remains part of the debate

The discussion resurfaced after Sánchez Bezos posted an Instagram video about sustainable materials. In the video, she listed mushrooms, pineapple leaves, cactus, bacteria and fishing nets as possible sources for clothing and said she was excited to work with the Bezos Earth Fund and scientists developing planet-friendly fabrics.

Fortune reported that some Instagram users responded positively, while others questioned the message. One user referred to carbon emissions from private jet travel, and another questioned whether Sánchez Bezos’s wedding clothing had been made from materials such as cactus or bacteria.

Critics also point to Amazon’s role in fashion retail. Fortune reported that Amazon is the world’s largest clothing retailer and has faced criticism over pollution tied to manufacturing, packaging and fast delivery.

Amazon says it is working toward net-zero carbon emissions by 2040. Its 2024 sustainability report said absolute carbon emissions rose 6% that year, while emissions per shipped unit had fallen by about one-third since 2019.

The cost of new materials is another obstacle. Fortune reported that sustainable-textile startups have struggled to match polyester on price and scale, while the Bezos Earth Fund says it wants to raise performance and lower premiums. Fortune said the fund did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

This story draws on original reporting from Fortune.